Scale can be expressed two ways; either as the size ratio between a full sized object and its miniature version (e.g. 1/58); or as a measurement that represents a given standard (e.g. 28mm). Most wargamer’s use this latter expression of scale to define the models they game with. Using a consistent scale ensures that miniatures and their ‘equipment’ remain in proportion to each other. This is especially important when purchasing from different manufactures. For role-players some variation can be tolerated but for tabletop wargamer’s such differences are not acceptable, especially for large projects like building a period army or creating a large diorama.
Tabletop wargames use a proliferation of scales but the most common type is 6mm, 15mm, 20mm and 28mm. The smaller 6mm miniature is roughly equivalent to 1/300 scale and has the advantage that the gamer can put massed units on the tabletop. Many historical wargames come in this scale but sci-fi games such as Warhammer 40k Epic also utilise 6mm miniatures.
Probably the most popular scale for pre 20th century historical wargames is 15mm (1/107th). This is also a popular size for ‘skirmish level’ games. Also popular for historical games are 20mm (1/76 to 1/72 scale ish). However my main focus is on so called 28mm models as these are the type that I have gamed with and painted most over the last 20 odd years. 28mm scale is roughly equivalent to 1/56th scale but there is huge variation within this group of miniatures.
In Part 2 tomorrow I’ll be giving some real life examples of scale creep and try to explain some of the reasons for its occurrence.(Updated 16:45 with some scale corrections)
You also have the same confussion when you speak of railway modelling guages, scales and figure height!
ReplyDeleteI would hope that part two would talk about 'styles' as well as mathematical scales - an example would be Graven Images 40mm vs Sash and Sabre 40mm, the same figure height - but the sculpting styles are miles apart!
Tony
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/