NEVER paint your last miniature

Every wargamer, painter, or tabletop enthusiast knows that moment — you walk past a trade stand, spot a shiny new box of figures, and your rational brain simply shuts down. “I need that,” you tell yourself. “For the next project. For the collection. For... reasons.” And just like that, another addition joins your ever-growing Lead Mountain.

In my latest YouTube video, I take a humorous (and painfully honest) look at this very real phenomenon: Shinyitus. It’s that uncontrollable urge to start new projects, buy more miniatures than you’ll ever paint, and somehow justify it all as “essential hobby investment.”

From the ghosts of unfinished armies to the sacred rule of never painting your last miniature, the video dives into why so many of us can’t stop collecting — and why that might not be such a bad thing. For many of us, the mountain of unpainted figures isn’t a source of guilt; it’s a source of joy, potential, and motivation.

I share my own story of purging (and inevitably restocking) my collection, as well as the self-deprecating truth that no amount of maturity can cure Shinyitus. Whether you’re into historical wargames, fantasy battles, or just miniature painting, this is one video every hobbyist will relate to.

Watch the full episode, join the comments, and tell me: how bad is your case of Shinyitus?

The Lead Mountain of Shame and how to conquer it

Are you drowning in a lead mountain of unpainted miniatures? Do you keep adding new wargaming models to your collection without finishing the ones you already have? In this video, we’ll tackle how to reduce your pile of shame, stay motivated, and finally get those wargaming miniatures painted!

Whether you're into historical wargaming, tabletop wargaming, Warhammer 40K, Age of Sigmar, Bolt Action, Flames of War, or any other miniature-based game, we all face the same struggle—too many unpainted models and not enough time! I’ll share practical tips, productivity hacks, and painting strategies to help you overcome hobby burnout and start making real progress on your miniature backlog.

 

Get Motivated and Paint!

How to get motivated and paint!

We all have times when starting a project can be an uphill struggle. So here are my top tips for overcoming inertia and getting motivated to paint your pile-o-shame / Lead Mountain. 

 

Not now Death, I'm Busy

Never paint your last miniature, it could be fatal. Once upon a time, I had a huge lead mountain that was becoming a millstone around my neck and cluttering up the house. I made a conscious effort to reduce the pile and only buy what I intended to paint. But increased lockdown productivity and a lack of trade shows have reduced my lead pile to dangerous levels. It's time I bought more miniatures, on purely health grounds of course.

Judging from many conversations I have had over the years, I suspect that most of us have a lead mountain that is far from at risk of elimination. But just in case, keep some miniatures aside as life insurance. 

Conquer the Lead Mountain

Does the presence of your Lead Mountain nag at you and give you stress?  Is the gravitational field of that big pile of metal interfering with your enjoyment of the hobby? Do you need supplemental oxygen to reach the summit? If the answer is yes to any of these, maybe you need to develop a strategy for conquering your lead mountain. Today's episode of The Quarantined Wargamer suggests a simple strategy for dealing with the problem. 

I hope you enjoyed that video and of course if you did please hit the 'Like' button and consider subscribing to my channel. As always I would love to hear from you either here on the blog or in the comments on youtube. How big is your 'lead' mountain and does it worry you. What are your strategies for dealing with it...or have you successfully pushed its existence to the back of your mind?

I hope everyone is staying well and for readers in England, I hope you are coping with Lockdown 2.0! Until next week, stay safe and of course, keep rolling high! 

Revisiting 'Lead Rot'

This 1984 Games Workshop Lizardman in my 
collection clearly shows the early signs of lead 
rot in the form of a white 'bloom'. 

Nearly a decade ago I wrote on this blog about the dreaded phenomenon known as Lead Rot. This supposed disease could eat its way through lead miniatures leaving nothing but dust in its wake. The subject has repeatedly come up for discussion on various miniatures forums over the years and recently I found some really old miniatures in my own collection that seemed to be exhibiting signs of this 'disease'. I decided it was time to dust the subject off again (excuse the pun) to stimulate the conversation and see if anyone else still has experience of this scary phenomenon.

Since I first wrote this article the miniatures industry has undergone a massive change in materials and manufacturing techniques meaning that very few modern miniatures are pure lead. Some manufacturers started changing the materials they used for casting miniatures as early as the 1960's however the biggest shift towards other materials took place in the early 90's and today most are made of white metal which is an alloy of lead and tin. so old lead miniatures generally (but not exclusively) pre-date this period. However I reckon most wargamers of a certain generation have at least some miniatures that are older than their kids (I certainly do) and these figures are therefore very likely to be cast from pure lead. 

---

"A figure with lead rot is literally decomposing before your eyes." [Toy Soldier Museum]

In the forty years I've been collecting and painting miniatures I've heard lots of horror stories about Lead Rot. This 'disease' can allegedly eat its way through a whole collection like some ravenous B-Movie monster. As a painter I want my models to have the best surface possible on which to work. I certainly don’t want to see a well painted model disintegrate before my eyes. So, is Lead Rot a real problem or a mini painter’s old wives tale?

The first step is to try to understand what Rot looks like. Some painters describe powdery discolouration ranging from green through brown and grey. However the most common description is of in a whitish grey surface ‘bloom’. In severe cases the surface of a miniature can actually be pitted and rough to the touch. The picture above shows a catastrophic case of rot in three models (not my own, thankfully). As a collector this picture makes my toes curl but is this actually a disease or merely some form of corrosion? And once ‘infected’ can a model be saved?

One explanation I read suggested that this was Lead rust. Iron rusts red and lead white. However this isn’t the case. Neither is it a disease or a fungus as has also been suggested. The white powdery bloom is actually Lead Carbonate and is in fact a chemical reaction, a form of corrosion that requires the metal figure to be in contact with an acid and carbon dioxide to act as a catalyst.

"The chemical process is: Acetic and some other acids, in the presence of carbon dioxide, catalyze with lead to produce lead acetate and lead hydroxide. Lead acetate and lead hydroxide together react with carbon dioxide and form lead carbonate. Lead carbonate then releases acetic acid and the process becomes self-sustaining. It is important to recognize that the formed lead carbonate is not just a substance clinging to the surface of a casting, it is the surface of the casting transformed to powder. For practical purposes, a portion of the lead is gone and lead carbonate is left in its place. The lead carbonate releases acetic acid which can continue the process until the lead part is progressively consumed from the outside, inward." (Source: Curator of Navy Ship Models)

This Electron Microscope image of corroded lead is 

enough to strike fear in the heart of any miniatures collector! 

Sources of acid can include PVA glue, enamel or oil based paints, and even some varnishes if applied directly to unpainted metal. Acid conditions on the surface of models can also be caused by the decay of organic residues such as the dead skin cells contained in household dust. Conversely the oils secreted by the skin can actually be beneficial to lead miniatures because they create a waterproof barrier on the surface blocking CO² from oxidizing the surface... so stroking your miniatures and talking to them is actually good for the little fellas!

Carbon dioxide is everywhere of course but CO² levels can increase in enclosed environments such as display cases. Storing miniatures in well ventilated locations does seem to help retard the chemical reaction as does the use of silicon desiccants to reduce moisture. However the simplest solution to prevent the ‘rot’ is to get painting! Once a model has been cleaned and sealed properly with an undercoat (don’t forget the underside of the base) then no CO² can get to the surface and the chemical process cannot begin.

For display models try to use plastic or glass shelves rather than wooden ones. Wooden display cases with relatively stagnant atmospheres will create an acetic acid-laden micro-environment where lead artefact's will corrode even without being in physical contact with the wood. Hardwood's in particular release more acetic acid than soft woods with Spruce, Pine or Elm being the 'safest' options. But even these can result in corrosion, especially if the wood is varnished or polished. Whatever display case you use maintaining good ventilation is essential to mitigating the conditions that can cause lead rot. (Source: Realm of Lead Addiction)

If you do have a model that is showing signs of lead rot it is not too late to salvage the situation. Clean the surface of the model thoroughly but avoid anything acidic as a cleaning agent. Any areas that have pitting can be cleaned up with a needle file or for more severe damage removed with a craft drill. Once all sign of corrosion has been removed seal the surface with an undercoat of acrylic paint and then store in a dry environment until ready to paint. Then sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor happy in the knowledge that your new ‘little friend’ will be around for some time to come.

---

I'd be interested to know if any of my readers have encountered 'lead rot' in their older figures, or indeed in any newer ones. Modern alloys should make this problem a thing of the past but I guess under extreme conditions it could still happen. Thanks in in advance for any feedback and have a good weekend folks. 

Finkin Time

Eye-Eye Captain

I'm going to be out of action tomorrow and Friday as far as painting is concerned. I have a couple of troublesome cysts in my left lower eyelid that need to be removed, and while the procedure is minor the after effect's mean I'll have blurred vision (from the eye drops they use) and will have to wear an eye patch for 24 hours. While I would ordinarily relish the chance to look like a Pirate the downside is that my depth perception will be reduced to zero, meaning I will have to take a couple of days off from painting.

The annoying thing is I also can't drive, meaning I'll be off work, which would ordinarily be a great opportunity for me to get some painting done! So instead of putting paint to metal I guess I'll just have to get some serious 'finkin' done instead. Oh my, this is gonna hurt...

First off I need to work out my painting strategy for the Analogue Challenge. I already have a rough idea what I want to do but I really need to dig out all the models, clean them up, assemble in some cases and prime them ready for the Dec 15th start date (yes, this is allowed). This is actually a really good opportunity for me to remind myself exactly what is in my Lead Mountain. Over the years I have tried to reduce the number of models laying around by either giving them away or occasionally selling them. Some old citadels went to my daughters for them to paint (I see it as an investment) but there are still several boxes lurking in the cupboard under the stairs and its high time I found out what was in them!

The second job I need to do is work out what I need to buy. A large part of the Challenge for me is about painting those models that are languishing in storage boxes, but I also want to paint some new stuff for my 6mm North Africa Project and that means buying yet more minis'. I have a vague but as yet unformed idea about painting some Italian Infantry but I don't really know at this stage what I need to buy. My depth perception may make painting difficult but it won't stop me looking at the relevant army lists and building up a shopping list.

If I still have time on my hands I could probably spend a bit of time tidying up my painting desk but I'll probably just take a leaf out of Mike Whitaker's book and listen to some pod casts. I don't get nearly enough time to do this normally so it'll be good to just sit down and geek out for a while.

I'm in the Painting Challenge

Well that's it, I've done it now! After several years of dithering I have finally taken the plunge and signed up for the Analogue Hobbies Painting Challenge. Like most wargamers I suffer from incurable Shineybloodyitus and I have my own personal lead Mountain hidden in a cupboard under the stairs like a guilty secret. The Lead Mountain isn't as huge as it used to be because I have had several 'purges' over the years where I have either sold or given away excess models rather than see them neglected, but there is still a sizable collection remaining. 

I have set myself a very modest target of 250 points (minuscule compared to the gargantuan 4500pts that James is aiming for!) which I hope to achieve by painting some wildly different models across several different scales. My 'to-do list' may change as the Challenge progresses but for now here is how I see myself achieving my target.  

6mm Projects

The bulk of my painting for the Challenge will be a continuation of my 6mm North Africa Project. I already had a vague idea that I would like to build and paint up another Italian Company to go with the Compagnia Carri (Tank) Company I already have. I don't have any clear plans yet, and a lot depends on the availability of figures and vehicles in 6mm, but I think that a target of about 100points is achievable. 

I recently also bought some vehicles to bolster my British forces but in the end I decided I didn't need them for my up-coming game and so these haven't been painted yet. If I can get them done they will add another 10 points to my tally. I also have several of the 6mm Resin buildings by Levin Miniatures that need to be completed. There isn't an official score for painting buildings but I'm hoping I may garner a few points for any I complete. 

[Challenge scoring regime - 6mm foot figure = 0.5 point / 6mm mounted figure, artillery piece or crew served weapon = 1 pts / 6mm vehicle = 2 points]

15mm Projects

Just before I started my 6mm North Africa project I bought a box of British Cromwell Tanks and although they may never reach the games table I would really like to get these painted. These should make a comfortable 30 points. I also have a couple of multi-part Tiger Tanks that are begging to be completed for a further 10 points. 

[Challenge scoring regime - 15mm foot figure = 2 pts / 15mm mounted figure, artillery piece or crew served weapon = 4 pts / 15mm vehicle = 6 pts]

28mm Projects

When I was at Blog-Con last week I was so inspired by the Blazing Dice game that I immediately picked up a couple of blister packs of Wild West gunmen. I also bought a couple of 2000AD character figures (Dredd of course and Rouge Trooper) just to paint for fun. So assuming these all get painted I should get about 60 points for these.  I also have quite a few special models (things like old Salute giveaway figures) that could be painted if I make a proper effort. 

[Challenge scoring regime - 28mm foot figure = 5 pts / 28mm mounted figure, artillery piece or crew served weapon = 10 pts / 28mm vehicle = 15 pts]

Rather worryingly all this only adds up to about 230 points and that seems like a massive challenge to a slow painter like me. But I guess its not called a 'Challenge' for nothing and the whole reason I have signed up this year is to push myself. So I guess all that is left for me to do now is to start prepping some figures, hit the Internet and place some orders for figures and scale the north face of my lead mountain in search of some models to inspire my paint brush. 

BLMA's Millionth Pageview Givaway

BigLee's Miniature Adventures has reached a seven digit milestone that I think is worthy of celebrating with a big Blog give-away (apparently they are all the rage among the hip blogs). Earlier today BLMA received its One Millionth Pageview since I first started writing it in January 2009. Its a humbling achievement and one that I never dreamt this Blog would reach when I first began it.

Thank you to everyone who has ever passed through and read my scribblings and enjoyed my pictures. But an especially big thank you must go out to BLMA's New Model Army of Followers who inexplicably keep coming back for more. Without your contribution the Blog wouldn't be half as much fun to write and I would probably have given up years ago.

So in recognition of the milestone, and to say thank you, I'm launching my Millionth Pageview Give-Away. There are several sets of prizes to choose from and the top three winners will get to pick one each from the following options. As well as the prizes shown below I'll try to find a little something extra to throw in as well as a surprise (don't hold your breath!). The rules are pretty standard for this sort of thing and are at the end of the post. 

The Celtos Selection

As the name suggests this prize consists of a selection of blister packs from the old Celtos range from i-Kore. There are four blister packs worth of models here, although for some reason I 'merged' two packs into one blister (no idea why). So we have an Orc Musician blowing on a huge horn (ooo-er); Freja of the Valkyries; a Dwarven warrior and three human Warriors.

Perry Priests and Pilgrims

This prize includes two large blister packs of Priests, Monks, Pilgrims and some commoners. As well as the models from the original blister I think there some extras from other sets because these two blisters contain 19 models in total. These are 25-28mm and would fit nicely into a Saga game or into a Medieval setting.

Osprey Modelling Guide
This is an excellent guide for those of you that want to stretch your painting skills a little. Being an Osprey it's written to the high standard we have all come to expect and its full of great illustrations.

Heresy Thrud the Barbarian
This is a great model, I know because I've already got one that I painted up some years ago. In fact it was so good I bought it again only for the model to sit in my 'lead mountain' for years. This is a crying shame and its about time this great multipart model went to a good home. And just in case you've never encountered Thrud before, I've thrown in a set of five comics that will introduce you to his saga!

Painting Guides
Two more painting guides full of beautiful illustrations to inspire you

The WWII Stuff
This prize consists of a Cromwell Tank blister pack from Battlefront and an Osprey Tank spotters Guide.

Ok, that's it for now. I may find some little extras to slip into each package but for now these are the prizes to select from. Its an eclectic mix so hopefully there's something in there for everyone. So all that remains is for me to say a big thank you to everyone for following my Blog over the last four and a half years and to wish you all the best of luck in the competition.

The Rules: 

• You must be either an existing follower of this Blog, or sign up as a new one, in order to enter. 
• You need to leave a comment on this post to qualify. 
• Multiple comments will count as multiple entries. 
• If you pimp this Give-away on your own Blog you'll earn yourself five bonus entries in addition to your initial entry but only if you post a link to it in a comment below (just to make it easier for me to verify). 
• The closing date for entries will be 12:00 midday (GMT) on Monday 15th July and I will post a final comment saying it has closed so that it is clear who got their hat in the ring on time and who didn't. 
• All entries (including bonus entries) will be randomised to generate the winners using the list randomiser available on the random.org website. 
• I'll announce the winners in a separate post and will do my best to notify the winners in person where possible. Each winner will get to pick a prize of their choosing in the order in which they are picked (so the 1st place winner gets first choice of the prizes, and so on). 
• I will try to post the winning prizes as soon as I can once they are claimed but please allow a couple of weeks for delivery (especially if you are an overseas winner).

UPDATE 11th Jul: I am recording all the entries as the week progresses and (in order to be fair to all entrants) I am checking the eligibility of each entry as per the rules detailed above. Please make sure you are a Follower or I will have to disallow your entry (sorry). 

UPDATE 12th Jul : A few people have said their comments have not appeared. A handful went to the spam folder but I have reinstated them and am monitoring the folder so nobody gets left out of the Draw on Monday. One possible reason you can't see your comments is that there are now so many there is more than one page worth! Scroll down to the 'end' of the list and just below the Comments Box it says Load More. Click that link and the second page of comments will be added and your comment is probably there, or repeat again to see the third page.

A Proper Wargamer?

This is my response to another one of those viral memes that occasionally do the rounds in our little online community. This one was kicked off by Phil Broeders on his blog The Wargaming Site and has been picked up by several other bloggers including Tamsin at The Wargaming Girl, Mike at Trouble at T'Mill, and Vladd at Too Much Free Time. I have decided to apply a points system to this so if you answer yes you get a point, half points can also be earned and of course no points for negative answers. As the first question has two parts the maximum score attainable is therefore 21 points... With the extra questions posed by Phil the maximum is now 57:

** This is an updated version of this article and includes an expanded list based on Phil's Pt 2 Post **

To genuinely call yourself a Wargamer, then you must have done most or all of the following:

* Spent at least £500 on figures / tanks - and you get extra kudos for every £500 you've spent

Oh yes, five hundred quid and then some... definitely get extra kudos for this one  (2 points)

* Pricked your finger or thumb on a pike block - several times
Do the lances on Russian Cossack's count? I took more damage from my own troops in one game than they dealt to the opposition. (1 point)

* Tried at least 10 different rule sets and vowed never to play half of them ever again
Nearly... I own about 7 or 8 WWII rulesets most of which will never get played. Not that this will stop me from buying more in my pursuit of the perfect rules. I also have a couple of ACW rules sets although my F&F rules do get used (½ Point)

* Bought an army off EBay
I have never bought a whole army on eBay, but I have picked up a real bargain or two from here.(0 Points)

* Sold an army on EBay
Never sold on EBay but I guess there's always a first time (0 Points)

* spent months painting an army - then used it in anger once
..or never! If it wasn't for my membership of the Rejects I probably wouldn't get to play at all.(1 Point)

* tried several different periods and genres
Definitely yes. Since joining Posties Rejects I have played dozens of periods, scales and rules sets. (1 Point)

* dropped a box of figures on the floor from a great height
Oh yes...the pain of opening the box and finding all the models in bits still haunts me.(1 Point)

* lost a battle on the last throw of the dice
Moral checks are the bane of my life and on more than one occasion I have lost a battle by failing a moral check even though I was winning tactically. If my life depended on one throw of the dice I'd be a dead man. I find that the more crucial the dice throw the greater the chances are that I'll roll a 1 (1 Point) 

* made at least one enemy for life
Yes, my Mother... oh you mean because of wargaming. Then thankfully the answer is no (0 Point)

* had a proper, stand up argument over a wargamers table
Once, long long ago when I was still a teenager. I like to think I have a matured a bit since then! (1 Point)

* thrown a dice across a room
Several times. I have also taken dice outside and set fire to them, hit them with hammers and even on one occasion cut one in half with an axe! My dice know who's boss... (1 Point)

* rebased an army for a different rule set
Ye gods never. The thought alone makes me shudder. (0 points)

* inflicted a whopping defeat on an opponent
Only once, and I felt so sorry for him after the game it took the shine off the victory.(1 Point)

* suffered an embarrassing defeat due to a stupid tactical decision
Long ago, in a Galaxy far far away... back when I played Warhammer Epic I had a massive Imperial Titan and basically forgot to move it at the start of a crucial turn. All my main guns were unable to come to bare on the enemy and I was so annoyed with myself I nearly broke my fist punching a wall! Did I say I have grown up a lot since then? (1 Point)

* joined a wargamers club
I've never been a 'club' type or person but I guess the Rejects are a sort of club. (½ Point)

* bought a ton of lead that remains unpainted
I did have a big lead mountain. I have made an effort to reduce it in recent years.(½ Point)

* been to a wargamers show
Duh, yes! I love them, as regular readers will know. (1 Point)

* have more dice than is logical or necessary to own - and have used most of them
I have thousands of unnecessary dice in bags, jars and boxes all round the house and I still come home from shows with new sets of dice...its gone beyond obsession and become a mania. I'm sure there must be a clinical name for this disorder but I don't want to be cured. (1 Point)

* have taken boxes of troops down to a club just to show them off to your mates
As already stated I'm not a club man. But I do like showing off my models which is why I started writing this blog. (½ Point)

And now some extra questions....

* You have reference books on each period / army you play (I must have ten samurai books now)

Yes, my 'library' keeps on growing (1 Point)
* Having played so many different games you confidently quote rules for a totally different period, scale or ruleset to the one you're playing at that moment
Hell no, my mastery of rules is shaky at best (0 Points)
* You have lied to your partner / spouse about how much you've spent on the hobby
I've never lied to my wife...I have on occasion been economical with the truth, but I've never lied. (0 Points)
* You get genuinely excited when a package arrives in the post
Most of my parcels get delivered to work and my colleges are used to seeing me rushing through the office to the lunch room gleefully clutching a parcel and grinning like a kid at Christmas. (1 point)
* You have joined a re-enactment society (5 points for this one!)
No, but if I were ten years younger (and 10 stone lighter) I might consider it (0 Points)
* You have played in an unsuitable venue 
My first Warhammer games were played on the floor rather than a table. That was a killer on the knees  I can tell ya. Too old and decrepit for that now! (1 Point) 
* You continue to search for the perfect Napoleonic / WW2 / Ancients / ACW etc. rule set (knowing that it doesn't actually exist).
Currently WWII rules are my obsession and 'money pit' (1 Point)
* For that reason you have developed your own house rules for certain periods.  And think them far superior to the original author's efforts.
Not yet, but I'm on the verge of doing so. (0 Points)
* You have returned from a wargames show and sneaked upstairs to hide the stash.
Life's too short for secrets...and besides I'd only get caught (0 Points)
* You have an irrational aversion to some genres and vow never to play them regardless of how much fun they look.
I can't say I have. I'll play anything and haven't encountered a period I 'hate' (0 points)
* You have made your own wargames scenery.
Yes, lots of it. Its cheaper and its fun in sad way (1 Point)
* You have reached a painting 'wall' 
Often. When I'm in the mood I can paint like the wind, but then I'll just dry up and do something else for a while until the bug bites again. (1 Point)
* You have lost - and regained - your wargaming mojo.
I have spent my time in the wilderness playing other games, but wargaming is a hard addiction to beat (1 Point)
* You have the occasional (and short lived) sense of guilt with your wife/children when complaining to them about the money spent in clothes, shoes or toys/Xbox games when you have £200 of unpainted metal stuffed in an upstairs drawer.
I'm as hypocritical as the next gamer but yes I have had a moments guilt now and again. (1 Point)
* You have done armies in different scales for the same period 
Currently doing WWII in 28mm, 15mm and now 6mm (1 Point)
* You have jealously coveted someone else's troops.
Pretty much every painted army I have seen at shows! (1 Point)
* You have laughed (secretly or otherwise) as someone else's paint job 
Ah yes, the Turquoise Death leap to mind. My friends rather oddly painted Space Marine army...I swear he must have been colour blind or something (1 Point)
* You have provided a piece of useless trivia relating to the troops on the table to show off your wargaming knowledge. 
Yes, and then got slapped down by an even bigger nerd who knew his stuff better than me! (1 point)
* You have contradicted someone elses' trivia - demonstrating your superior knowledge and giving you a warm glow inside.
Revenge is a dish best served hot! (1 Point)
* You have caused a major disaster on a wargames table (spilling a pint, collapsing the table, dropped someone else's figures on the floor). 
I've knocked the occasional bit of scenery over but thankfully nothing big and catastrophic (0 Points)
* You have cheered when an opponent's dice lets them down at a critical point (I have literally danced in front of someone when he failed a morale roll) 
I have done the War Dance too, I'm ashamed to say (1 point)
* You have lied to your partner about going gaming.  "Mothers' not very well - just popping around to see her.  I'll be back in about - oh - seven hours".
See my earlier answer about not lying to the wife! (0 Points)
* You have lied to an attractive woman (man) about your hobby.  
...except of course back when I was courting her. I didn't admit I was a gamer until we'd been going out long enough I was sure she wouldn't walk out there and then! (1 Point)
* You have made an opponent cry.  It doesn't count if they are under 8 years old though.
No. I'm not that good. (0 Points)
* You have painted the same army in the same scale more than once (Monty, you dawg!)  
No. But there's still time.. (0 Points)
* You have reference books on armies you haven't even got.
Yes. My 'library' is extensive and growing (1 Point)
* You have bought figures for a period you have never and will never play - because they were cheap.
We're all guilty of that, aren't we? (1 Point)
* You have inflicted grievous bodily harm on a dice that has let you down. 
As earlier indicated I have been known to destroy badly performing dice. (1 Point)
* You blog or have a web-page about your Wargaming activities
Clearly that is a yes! (1 point)
* Your book collection is almost all war and wargames related
My wife and I love books and our house is like a library, but mine are almost exclusively military history related. (1 Point)
* You critique 'war' movies (especially Hollywood war movies) for historical accuracy.
Don't get me started! (1 point)
* You spend car / train journeys checking out the lie of the land - considering which way you would attack from and whether it would make good wargaming terrain.
When the muse is upon me I become a motoring menace! (1 Point)

Total 37/57 (65% Wargamer!)

Does a score of 15 from 21 37 from 57 make one a 'proper wargamer' I wonder? Thanks to Phil for the great list and the inspiration. It brought back mostly good memories of over 30 years playing wargames.

Never paint your last model

Once upon a time I owned a huge pile of lead. Boxes and boxes of miniatures were bought and almost immediately put into storage around the house. I had hundreds of figures suitable for D&D or Call of Cthulhu character models and a whole other set of models of the corresponding monsters and villains. When I played Warhammer Fantasy Battle I probably had enough models to build three armies (all the same of course) and the trend didn't end there when I collected WH40k Epic. I always fielded painted armies in my games, but at least two thirds of the models I bought never made it to the games table. 

Of course I'm not alone in this apparent mania (sometimes known as "Ooo-Shiney!" complex), pretty much every miniatures gamer - wargamer's and roleplayer's alike - have the same problem and collectively we probably have enough lead to sink a warship. However a few years ago I made the decision to drastically reduce my lead mountain and where possible see my miniatures go to good use rather than moulder away in my shed. Some figures I set aside for my kids to paint and play with. Some I gave away to friends and some I sold. Box after box of unpainted metal left the house for pastures new and my 'purge' was so successful that I now have just a handful of unpainted miniatures left. 

I still have a small number of models set aside just for character figures for RPG games but when it comes to my wargaming models I am currently painting my last platoon, albeit at a very slow pace. Its almost as if my unconscious self realises the danger I am in because, as all gamers know, one should NEVER paint your last model. Drastic action is clearly required, on purely medical grounds if nothing else! 

So I'll be hitting SELWG on Sunday with the burning desire to buy a new army but no clear plan as to what to buy. That folks is called 'living dangerously'. I can feel a full blown ooo-shiney relapse coming on. Especially as I'll be surrounded on all sides by traders with tempting show discounts. And will I be able to turn to my friends for mutual support and willpower? Will I heck! They'll probably be encouraging me to buy even more mini's, just like good gaming buddies always do (bless 'em!). 

So if I come home from SELWG on Sunday with a new FOW army clutched in my trembling hands, I'll just have to tell my wife that I did it for the good of my health. Maybe she'll believe me, maybe not, but it'll make for a good epitaph non-the-less. 

Distractions and Prevarication

I'm easily distracted and need little or no excuse to prevaricate while working on a large project. Such has been the fate of my US Parachute Rifle Company. I started this project with a big fanfare back in November and it's still sitting unfinished on my desk! I've not been completely idle but I have found it harder to make progress with this project than I have to start new stuff. Indeed a whole succession of other projects have crossed my desk in the last few months.

I'm nearly finished a couple of minor projects and I hope to have some pictures of at least one of them up tomorrow. Then I really really ought to get on with my airborne Company. I'll be taking them into work one Platoon at a time in the hope that breaking the task down into smaller sections will make it seem less daunting. That's the Plan anyway, but as the old military axiom goes "no plan survives contact with the enemy"... or maybe in my case it should be "no plan survives contact with my lead mountain".

Painted in 20 Eleven

Following on from my review of the year a few days ago I thought I'd post a collection of pictures of the best stuff I painted last year. This was the year that I focused on my Flames of War collection and the terrain to play it. I want to diversify this year by going back to my painting roots with some 28mm figures. Like most gamers I have a growing lead mountain and I feel an overwhelming urge to dive into it and see what inspires me in 2012.

M5A1 Stuart Platoon

Destroyed Stug Objective Marker

15mm resin walls

Sherman A1M1 76mm Platoon

US Motorised Rifle Platoon

Supply Depot Objective Marker

Sherman M4A1 Platoon

PillBox

Dragons Teeth

MG Nest

Panzer IV's by Forged in Battle

15mm Resin Norman Church

Norman Farmhouse

Nebelwerfer 42 Rocket Battery

US Rifle Platoon

Schwere Panzerspahwagen - Sd Kfz 234/2 Puma

Smoke and Flames

Reprise: Lead Rot, Myth or Reality

A couple of years ago I write a post about the dreaded phenomenon known as Lead Rot . This supposed disease can eat its way through lead miniatures leaving nothing but dust in its wake. The subject has repeatedly come up for discussion on various Miniatures and Gaming forums so I thought it worth revisiting this post and updating it where appropriate. I hope you find it useful.

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Source: Toy Soldier Museum

In the twenty odd years I've been collecting and painting miniatures I've heard lots of horror stories about Lead Rot. This 'disease' can allegedly eat its way through a whole collection like some ravenous B-Movie monster. As a painter I want my models to have the best surface possible on which to work. I certainly don’t want to see a well painted model disintegrate before my eyes. So, is Lead Rot a real problem or a mini painter’s old wives tale?

The first step is to try to understand what Rot looks like. Some painters describe powdery discolouration ranging from green through brown and grey. However the most common description is of in a whitish grey surface ‘bloom’. In severe cases the surface of a miniature can actually be pitted and rough to the touch. The picture above shows a catastrophic case of rot in three models (not my own, thankfully). As a collector this picture makes my toes curl but is this actually a disease or merely some form of corrosion? And once ‘infected’ can a model be saved?

1984 Games Workshop Lizardman

One explanation I read suggested that this was Lead rust. Iron rusts red and lead white. However this isn’t the case. Neither is it a disease or a fungus as has also been suggested. The white powdery bloom is actually Lead Carbonate and is in fact a chemical reaction, a form of corrosion that requires lead to be in contact with acid and carbon dioxide to act as a catalyst.

"The chemical process is: Acetic and some other acids, in the presence of carbon dioxide, catalyze with lead to produce lead acetate and lead hydroxide. Lead acetate and lead hydroxide together react with carbon dioxide and form lead carbonate. Lead carbonate then releases acetic acid and the process becomes self-sustaining. It is important to recognize that the formed lead carbonate is not just a substance clinging to the surface of a casting, it is the surface of the casting transformed to powder. For practical purposes, a portion of the lead is gone and lead carbonate is left in its place. The lead carbonate releases acetic acid which can continue the process until the lead part is progressively consumed from the outside, inward." (Source: Curator of Navy Ship Models)

(Source)

Sources of acid include PVA glue, enamel or oil based paints, and even some varnishes (if applied directly to unpainted metal). Carbon dioxide is everywhere of course but storing miniatures in well ventilated locations does seem to help retard the chemical reaction. Its worth adding at this point that most (but not all) modern miniatures have a relatively low lead content, being a pewter mix of one type or another. As such they are much less prone to this reaction than older models which were often cast from 100% lead. If, like me, you have a large unpainted mountain of models, it’s likely that some of them will be older types and therefore at risk.

So what can you do to prevent the ‘rot’ setting in? Get painting! Once a model has been sealed properly with an undercoat (don’t forget the underside of the base) then no CO² can get to the surface and the chemical process cannot begin.

Electron Microscope image of corroded lead (Source)

For display models try to use plastic or glass shelves rather than wooden ones. Wooden display cases with relatively stagnant atmospheres will create an acetic acid-laden micro-environment where lead artefact's will corrode even without being in physical contact with the wood. Hardwood's in particular emit more acetic acid than soft woods with Spruce, Pine or Elm being the 'safest' options. But even these can result in corrosion, especially if the wood is varnished or polished. Whatever display case you use maintaining good ventilation is essential to mitigating the conditions that can cause lead rot. (Source: Realm of Lead Addiction)

If you have a model that is showing signs of lead rot its not too late to salvage the situation. Clean the surface of the model but avoid anything acidic as a cleaning agent (one source I read suggested using vinegar!!!). Any areas that have pitting can be cleaned up with a needle file or for more severe damage removed with a craft drill. Once all sign of rot has been removed seal the surface with an undercoat of acrylic paint and then store in a dry environment until ready to paint. Then sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor happy in the knowledge that your new ‘little friend’ will be around for some time to come.

January Poll : Lead, Resin or Plastic?

This months Poll is as response to my recent self realisation that a large portion of my 'Lead Mountain' is actually not lead. I tend to buy miniatures from a practical or aesthetic point of view and what it is made of comes way down my list of purchasing criteria. Having said that I definitely prefer to paint metal miniatures. I like the weight of a metal miniature in my hand, the surface seems easier to clean and I think metal takes paint much better than plastic or resin. I may be wrong about all this of course, it could just be that having grown up with lead mini's I'm just a little bit biased towards them.

I have found that resin models are more likely to be coated with residues of mold parting agents, silicon or wax based products when bought. I wash all my miniatures in warm water with a small amount of washing up liquid before painting but especially so with Resin or Plastic mini's. Some resin pieces however are extremely smooth with a glass like surface which doesn't take water based (brush on) primer very well. I usually spray prime these instead. I've never experienced this problem with metal miniatures once they are washed.

Similar problems can also exist with plastic miniatures and one suggestion I have read about is to coat the min in watered down PVA glue then prime. The Glue gives the paint something to key onto the surface. I've not tried this myself but in theory it would work.

So do you have a preference? If you were faced with three identical miniatures, one in Lead, another in Plastic and the last in Resin, which would you choose to paint? The Poll will run till the end of the month but as always I'd like to hear about your preferences or experiences so feel free to leave comments below.